Mama's Kitchen

Mama's Kitchen occupies a prime spot right on Selong Belanak beach, its tables and chairs set directly on the sand just meters from the water. It is the kind of beach warung that travelers dream about: cold Bintang, fresh grilled fish, ocean breeze, and a sunset that makes you consider never leaving. Mama — a force-of-nature Sasak woman who has run this spot for over a decade — presides over the kitchen with the efficiency of a military commander and the warmth of everyone's favorite grandmother. The menu is simple and focuses on what she does best: grilled fish (choose from the ice display — snapper, mackerel, or tuna depending on the day's catch), nasi goreng, mie goreng, and fresh fruit juices. Everything is prepared over an open charcoal grill. The grilled fish with rice, sambal, and a side of plecing kangkung is one of the best meals on this stretch of coast and costs IDR 35,000-50,000. The banana pancake for dessert is thick and caramelized. Bintang is IDR 30,000 — reasonable for a beachfront location. Mama also rents surfboard racks where you can store your board while you eat, and she keeps an eye on your belongings while you surf. The warung gets busy around sunset when surfers pile in after the afternoon session. No reservations, no fuss, no pretension — just great beachfront food from a legendary local cook.